Part one: text only. Sometime down the line, it will become a bit more graphic and end up as a pdf. Constructive comments are welcomed.
Arbitrary turks head knots
These are the steps that I have found works for me unless more intricate patterns are required.
When I don't have to tie it on location, foam pipe insulation is superior. It is easy to stick needles in. It is also flexible so as not to obstruct when sliding the finished knot off of it.
I start with estimating how many bights will look ok. As fancy knot tying is not generally critical (handles ought to give a good grip though), it comes down to a subjective matter of taste.
It is very common with three passes. It does generally look good. The length of the required knot comes down to among of leads combined with passes. In fact, it comes down to a complete crossing (see image).
Find out how much space a crossing will take up in lengthwise direction. The angle of the crossing will affect the value a bit. Leads going 45 degrees are often considered desirable. Well, the finished article may deviate. It is hard to say from the start.
Now, divide the required length with the length of a crossing, with the gap included. Don't forget that the bights will be part of it all. With a lot of failures, emerges a sense of fair estimation.
Also remember that yet another parameter affect the resulting knot. Tensioning the knot ought to be done in small steps. Please learn to stop tensioning when the knot looks good. It is hard to resist going around one more time. But please do resist. Going down that path can lead to victory. But not seldom, it ends up unevenly taught, too tight or maybe you even lose heart before finishing.
There are a few ways that the circuit just won't work. Probably, there are math to explain it. I haven't gone through Shaake's all documents. Luckily, fails don't occur that often.
Ok, here we go. Time has come to grab the string.
On the core (foam, wood, toilet roll), put needles in a ring for bights. Determine a good length and then some. Remember, the finished length is the result of crossings. For now, we want some space to tie with. Put needles for the bights at the other end.
Secure the end of the string near a bight pin. Turn the core and wind string onto it as you go. Keep winding and go the other way as you round a pin at the other end. If you happen to get a turning pint jst next to the starting pin, chances are that the knot is going to work.
Note: If you happen to turn, a pin or two from the starting pin, there is a risk of closing the circuit without using all the bights. You can use that feature for other knots. But this time we are talking about TH-knots. So start over and make sure the circuit passes all bight pins before ending at the start.
Now, as knots go, we have achieved absolutely nothing. But what we do have, is a grid. Time to check: Did you end up with the desired amount of crossings?
From here on, all we do is weave. over, under, over. Check yourself for errors when you come to a bight pin. At a circle of bights, the string should go the same way around all pins. If not, you threaded wrong somewhere. Fix it now! It has to be done. You will only cheat on yourself. And the work is exponentially harder the longer it takes you to find the error. So be vigilant.
Ok, we made it back to the start. We have two passes on the core. However, one pass (the first) is the grid that is of no further use. Unthread it. From this, you can estimate how much extra material will be needed for the third pass. Then you can rethread it, following the second pass proper TH-knot. That makes two proper passes. Continue threading the third pass.
