This is a hitch I developed to allow a single line rappel from a rappel ring or other type of anchor, reliable enough to stay put during a rappel descent (minimal slippage expected with alternating loading/unloading of standing part) and loose enough to be undone by just shaking the rope from below,
If this falls apart from shaking from below, why would it not fall apart from strong wind gusts during a pause in the descent if the line goes temporarily slack?
You're presenting this for a rappel descent. I'm uncomfortable with someone presenting a new knot for rappelling without much of a warning. Here's a good warning:WARNING
IF YOU USE THIS KNOT FOR RAPPELLING,YOU MIGHT DIE.
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
...
But there is friction at both ends of this cordage ellipse, as well as some resistance of rope to bend. Beyond this, while my hand shook the rope within 2 feet of the lower knot, abseilers will be making their (increasingly, desperate) frantic shakings of the rope from some 50m distant, with their immediate effects buffered/ameliorated by considerable friction against the rock face, possibly! AND the 50m of suspended rope will impart tension yielding mild constriction of the turNip!
So, how is this supposed to work?
--dl*
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Transmitting enough shake energy to loose the far end of a single climbing rope could be very difficult in many rap scenarios, and as odd that might seem, I suspect that is the problem.
alpineer
There is a particular feature with climbing ropes that facilitates shaking a jbit loose, and it is its resistance to very tight curvature. It is somewhat springy, and it does not easily nip or jam, so there might be a better chance to work any knot loose in that kind of rope, kernmantle, than anything used in boating.
(I think I was wrong to so much try to over-counter-weight the tail with the length of "*reach*" of the end from the eyeknot, thinking then that that added span was mass to pull the entire two loops around with, vs. the tail --no, the tail will have some impetus to work out just in its short span, I believe, though upon that there will be the draw of other parts to fully spill it.)
But, a hand moving laterally a little below the structure, in my (and I suspect others') quick shake-test will achieve an angle of shaking far greater than is achievable from shaking 50m below, with the mass of 50m of rope upon the structure, to boot! One can try to cast up a big oscillation, but ... you'll need to have lived a clean life for that to be blessed with success, methinks!
Andre, it would be foolish to think that you've not given this some kind of in situ testing : how far, how so ... " --do tell. Pure overhang I presume is most favorable for working, versus any bit of *channel* rapping through which would slap down any oscillation reaching it.
Or how far UP can one *throw* some kind of *roll* in climbing rope?
Btw, re-reading, I see that you point to the "coil-to-ring span over tail(-end) length" ratio; I think that i.p. it might be much just the absolute distance of "coil" ("turNip") from the ring --i.e., putting the coil lower so that it gets more shift in the shaking, irrespective of how much tail must get shaken out!
I tested with rather SHORT span, so was biased against the structure working (and the Sta-Set lacked that quality
of springy resistance to bending which Inkanyezi cited).
--dl*
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The search for such a solution is not new, and it's something mountaineers would love.What exactly are you looking for? The use of just a single thick rope for descent?
What exactly are you looking for? The use of just a single thick rope for descent?
If you anchored with a running loop (http://notableknotindex.webs.com/bowline.html) of your liking, would it be a violation of your preferences to use a separate small cord to unshrink the running loop anchor from the ground until it falls apart?
It wouldn't be as light as simple as a single rope, but the small cord wouldn't add much weight.
Below is a very rough pic to show the idea of a single rope rappel by using a counterweight.
Below is a very rough pic to show the idea of a single rope rappel by using a counterweight.
Aside from the issue of the weight getting caught on obstructions, or failing to drop on less extreme slopes, I'd be concerned about having a noggin-smasher hurtling down from on high.
Even if you don't mind being in harm's way, you might have a hard time getting your rope back for the purported next course if the weight keeps bouncing down the hillside below you.
Below is a very rough pic to show the idea of a single rope rappel by using a counterweight.
There are many variations.
Change it to a bight through the ring, a slip-tuck bight
through that bight to toggle it,
and the tail weighted:
- on rappel, the 1st bight nips the slip-tuck toggle hard
and holds the abseiler for the descent;- by unweighting that line, though, the nip lessens (hope-hope),
and the weighted tail pulls out the slip-tuck bight,
spilling the line, weight attached, and secured below.
Out of curiosity, what would you tie if you had 100 feet of a single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance?
Out of curiosity, what would you tie if you had 100 feet of a single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance?
A turn (the usual method).
--dl*
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Out of curiosity, what would you tie if you had 100 feet of a single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance?
A turn (the usual method).
--dl*
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I don't get it. The subject here is rappelling. So, I'd rather not guess what you mean.
What would be a good combination of knots to use for the rappel and to get the single rope down after the rappel? (Again, the situation is 100 feet of single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance.)
Out of curiosity, what would you tie if you had 100 feet of a single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance?
A turn (the usual method).
--dl*
====
I don't get it. The subject here is rappelling. So, I'd rather not guess what you mean.
What would be a good combination of knots to use for the rappel and to get the single rope down after the rappel? (Again, the situation is 100 feet of single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance.)
Most climbing ropes are 160' (or 50 m), but if what you have is a 100' rope and the distance is 40', there is 20' of rope with which to make the knots when the rope is doubled all the way. It's a pretty standard situation and there are several ways of doing it, but the simplest would be doubling the rope through the belaying point and putting a Munter through the biner on the harness. The rope ends are tied together with an overhand, There is no knot on the rope when it is retrieved, so it is rather simple.
The knot that is presented here is for cases where the doubled rope would not reach the point you would rappel to.
Out of curiosity, what would you tie if you had 100 feet of a single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance?
A turn (the usual method).
--dl*
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I don't get it. The subject here is rappelling. So, I'd rather not guess what you mean.
What would be a good combination of knots to use for the rappel and to get the single rope down after the rappel? (Again, the situation is 100 feet of single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance.)
Look at YOUR pic of a single-rope set-up above; now, UNtie those dang knots. Get it? (There is some extra 50' of rope on the just-unknotted side, as on the other. Actually, it's maybe a trick quetion : I'd useAshley's stoppers in both ends, 2 B sure --of not rapping off the ends.)
.:. The circumstance you posit is a standard, unchallenging (and expected, with "twin" rope!) case; the more common case is with two ropes, joined together.
--dl*
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