I came up with this loop knot a few years ago (after a bowline mishap) and it has become one of my favorite knots. It's not hard to adjust the loop size, it holds well through numerous load/unload cycles, and alternating uneven loads--except perhaps on the slickest of ropes, and it always unties very easily without a remaining knot to clean up in the standing part. Tying it was a bit clumsy at first, but I devised the attached method which I've found to be quick and easy to remember. (Alas, I don't have a method which works if the standing part is already under tension).
But I don't know what this knot is called. I've looked through various books but haven't found it yet. (I've just been calling it a Proteus knot, because of the shape-shifting way I tie it.) If anyone knows what this knot is, it would be nice to have the standard name for it. Thanks.
Nick (ngear@gvtc.com)