My favorite way to tie a Trucker's Hitch; is as part of a series of "stacked multipliers"; and adjustable if necessary.
i use a Trucker's Hitch in series of leveraging steps, not a crowning achievement!
Take a loose piece of line, create an iron bar(tightened TH) within it, use that bar to tighten load!
In this strategy, TH is not the end of tightening, but rather beginning base module!
But, it is the only real setup time/ materials, the rest is almost just about style of application/ things you do in concert, then perhaps snug more etc. 2 people can seem to do about the same thing, with very varied outputs. The old man with science of polished moves can (many times) overtake the younger rabbit that has less direction and intent to targeted point..
Acknowledge any inevitable frictions (d'Lehman 1.5x actual output after frictions example to lessen David's position against Goliath load).;
But then try to make lemonade/turn that around by using the same frictions to help hold a taken purchase; while deploying another tightening strategy.
For example the
youTube vid shows impacting (as a multiplier) body-weight into Trucker's Hitch . So have impact x weight exerted x 1.5 etc. i'd add some more things though(not to pick apart, just example burnt into both brain cells).
Another thing i'd do over rough timber (assuming line spans over to the other side), is karate chop the line to help equalize your now higher tensioned side with the other lesser tensioned span of line on other/off side of the truck, then reTighten your side etc. i might try to swig/sweat more into rig, by tensioning and locking input_1 to something, then bending it, and capture purchase behind the frictions we are fighting. Then lock off and throw line under spars, and around line other side, and bend it/both lines.
The 2 pics below bend the rules by using 2nd piece of line/prusik cord , but if this is part of your kit(i even have pulley to slap in here)..
This can be very helpful, because can take purchase, pinch/line off at friction to hold and slide prussik up for another purchase/ compression of the rig (climbers call this a Z-rig). If having to lift something a long way, may piggy back a short z-rig on main line, take purchase of line, lock off line, extend rig for another go etc., all the same... In resetting prussik, always found it best to pull out 90degrees sharply, then tighten in opposite direction sharply, then sharply in real direction of pull, to set.
The first pic shows input force_1 at arrow pull, will put 3x(if no friction) on top ring, if bottom anchor can take 2x the input. However if the bottom ring was moving when pulled line, you'd have a 2x(if no friction) over that bottom ring. You could elect to use that as a lift or it could be a failing rig working against you..
If lace out a TH, and continue with working end, to put TH, pulling on TH=3x3=9x input_1 with straight lines in friction free world!
So even at 1.5x input_1 yield from basic Truckers, we can impact into it, we can over tighten to 1 side, then straighten by tightening off side, vibrate /leverage to equalize tightness when friction over a load, sweat more purchase from rig; then after tweaking all that to iron bar tight, bend it (leveraging similar to swig/sweat line tight)!
So TH is only a single leveraging multiplier, in a series of multipliers; sometimes breaking/bending stuff.
The real tightening here, is bending the TH rig; all else is setup to make TH resist the bending more; yielding higher output.
It is not just how good is this hammer; but how you use it as a tool that matters(or sometin'like that).