How does one tie a timber hitch under load?!
Same as the round turn and two half hitches.
The only difference is that you have to thread the end through 3 times in place of the first half hitch.
The former certainly better suited for this, but it is possible (especially in combination with 1 or more round turns)
Not at all "the same" : the venerable
(round turn &) two half-hitches is a
noose hitch--a hitch tied to the structure's SPart, and something that can be done
under tension, albeit not necessarily set without yielding some length
in adjustment.
But the
timber hitch is a proper *hitch* with tucked parts running
against the hitched object --something one cannot readily
do with tension on part to be "dogged" (tucked under). Indeed,
preferably, the final tuck(s) will be towards the SPart's entry,
to receive greatest nipping pressure.
Arborists use this knot regualarly, but with caution and some
anecdotal evidence that the "surprising" thing about it is that
it doesn't always hold so well (catching a drop).
Sure, the timber hitch has certain drawbacks.
It remains a mystery as to these anecdotal failures, some by
tyers who should be doing a pretty decent job of making
enough (seemingly!) tucks and across a good span of rope.
Could it be some bit of potential magic of friction (lessening)
from a surge of force on the tucked bight --an initiated and
thus continuing slippage got by "shock" ?! And maybe
something precluded or greatly mitigated by taking a full
turn before dogging the tail (which also can provide some
friction-hitch-like gripping to keep the set knot from loosening
when slack) ?
I picked it for my list because of its versatility, ...
It's a spar & pile hitch, but not a ring hitch; there is that much
of a limitation on its versatility. (In contrast, a
clove hitch--especially when stoppered-- can serve across this range
(which asks a lot of a knot!).)
For critical use or permanent hitch, one can use the zeppelin in combination with a round turn as a hitch.
The way in "zeppelin" pops up in so many places, and especially
lists of basic knots such as this, betrays an armchair appraisal of
knotting. For a (semi-)permanent hitch one will typically want
something that turns the fully loaded SPart around a hard-smooth
object (in that common circumstance). One can see some easy
adjustments to the
fig.8-based noose-hitches just posted by Xarax
for knots that would do this well (and still yield to untying effort).
Whereas interceding with force and hitch with some eyeknot will
then see repeated load cycles wearing rope-vs-rope in that knot,
which I think will be much quicker deterioration of material.
- - - - - - -... the Killick Hitch(timber hitch/half hitch), it holds well.
Let me object to calling this structure by this name : I surmise that
the (true)
Killick (Killeg, ...) hitch which is given a history of having
bound commercial fishing lines to stones is (was) actually
a
cow hitch with the tail dogged for security --a knot that
draws up rather snugly and with a suitable jamming, perhaps
aided by shrinkage of wet natural-fibre (or nylon!) rope.
This is a surmise from the given historical use & origin.
Spreading out that knot into two halves is moving to something
different, a compound structure as you've described.
(
ABOK is seemingly amply supportive of seeing the knot as you
--and many other sources (echoes)-- present it, but the context
of the structure at #271 (
"Occupational Knots") and its stated use
(along with #272, the
slingstone hitch ) strongly suggest that
there is a jamming knot, not a loose half-hitch. For this, I will note
that the **cow** orientation of this
half-hitch to the
timbermakes a better jamming structure than does the **clove**; but if
they are to be spaced apart --as for use on timber-- the difference
of orientation doesn't matter.)
I tried the timber hitch alone, and it spilled completely....the half hitch actually keeps it stable.
Can you elaborate, please? I'd think that the main issue with
using only the
timber hitch would be possible slippage up
the spar, which, needing the knot to be proximate an end,
for the sake of steering control, would risk it pulling off.
But ... spilling?! Sure, there's more load on the knot,
but the hitch should nip & grip & hold. Any thoughts
on the mechanics involved to loosen it? --how many tucks?
(and over what span of rope?)
--dl*
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