Multi-wrap Capstan hitch

[knot4u]

Can someone please explain the purpose of the Prusik in the original post? I thought its purpose would have been discussed by now.

Also, I can't figure out why some people are discussing the term "Frictionless Hitch". How did that term ever become an issue here? It's not mentioned in the original post.

[knot4u]

Note the fig 8 and the bina to attach the dead end to the loaded line - it nicely prevents any load being transmitted to the loaded line, but what a waste of resources when they go on so much about resource use.  Far more frugal would have been to tuck a bight of the dead end behind the turns and thread the dead end through the bight before drawing it tight to hold the loops in place...

Cavers often tie off their rope and go down a  pit, leaving the rope unattended.  The nicely finished knot and carabiner lets passersby know that the rope was placed for a reason by someone who knows what he is doing.  We often tie the rope around the base of a tree.  In such a situation, we could wrap the rope around the tree six times without any finishing knot, carabiner, or half hitches.  Just let the free end of the rope lay on the ground.  I would be afraid of someone thinking it was an abandoned rope, or being helpful by tying the rope "better".

That's good to know, thanks.

I use the multi-wrap or tensionless hitch (or whatever we want to call it) because a person on rope can be lowered in an emergency.  Another rope might have to be tied on.  The often-touted "full strength of the rope" is irrelevant in almost all situations.

You seem to be explaining another purpose for the Tensionless Hitch besides its strength, but I don't understand your explanation. Please elaborate.

[Bob Thrun]

I use the multi-wrap or tensionless hitch (or whatever we want to call it) because a person on rope can be lowered in an emergency.  Another rope might have to be tied on.  The often-touted "full strength of the rope" is irrelevant in almost all situations.

You seem to be explaining another purpose for the Tensionless Hitch besides its strength, but I don't understand your explanation. Please elaborate.

There are incidents where cavers are stuck on rope.  The fatality that everyone remembers is that of James Mitchell in 1965(?).  He was climbing out of a cave in a freezing waterfall.  Even without a waterfall, cutting off blood circulation by a seat sling can be serious.  When someone is stuck, the first attempt is to get him up.  If that fails, he can be lowered and a better rescue effort can be organized.  Another rope might be needed. The "tensionsionless" hitch allows tension to be taken off the rope gradually.

Another use would be pretensioning a tightrope.  An ascender or Prusik would be used to pull the rope.  The hitch would tie off the rope without puting any slack in it.

[knot4u]

There are incidents where cavers are stuck on rope.  The fatality that everyone remembers is that of James Mitchell in 1965(?).  He was climbing out of a cave in a freezing waterfall.  Even without a waterfall, cutting off blood circulation by a seat sling can be serious.  When someone is stuck, the first attempt is to get him up.  If that fails, he can be lowered and a better rescue effort can be organized.  Another rope might be needed. The "tensionsionless" hitch allows tension to be taken off the rope gradually.

Ah, I see now. So, the "tensionless" part of this hitch has value. The tensionless working end is where you attach the additional rope. Then, you can lower the climber (your load) by either working the rope(s) around the anchor, or by twisting the anchor like a capstan if you can. I imagine using the anchor like a capstan would be rather convenient, but that option probably wouldn't be available in a climbing situation out in nature.

Another use would be pretensioning a tightrope.  An ascender or Prusik would be used to pull the rope.  The hitch would tie off the rope without puting any slack in it.

Likewise, the Tensionless Hitch is an option for finishing a Trucker Hitch, but I'd secure the working end somehow, probably Two Half Hitches. So, basically, we're talking Round Turns and Two Half Hitches.

[Bob Thrun]

The multi-wrap, or tensionless, or capstan hitch has three advantages:
  1. Simplicity
  2. It can be tied while the rope is in tension.
  3. It can be released while the rope is in tension.

The fact that it can develop the full strength of the rope is irrelevant for anything but a tensile test machine.

It seems to me that a hitch as useful as this should have an old and well-established name, something more distinctive than round turn and two half hitches.  Tensionless hitch is a recent term.  It is odd that the term tensionless is used for a hitch whose main advantage over every other knot and hitch is that it can be used while the rope is in tension.

[knot4u]

The multi-wrap, or tensionless, or capstan hitch has three advantages:
  1. Simplicity
  2. It can be tied while the rope is in tension.
  3. It can be released while the rope is in tension.

The fact that it can develop the full strength of the rope is irrelevant for anything but a tensile test machine.

It seems to me that a hitch as useful as this should have an old and well-established name, something more distinctive than round turn and two half hitches.  Tensionless hitch is a recent term.  It is odd that the term tensionless is used for a hitch whose main advantage over every other knot and hitch is that it can be used while the rope is in tension.

As you described above, because of zero tension at the working end, you can attach another rope and do all kinds of other stuff. So, the name Tensionless Hitch makes total sense to me because of the zero tension at the working end. I guess I'm the only here who thinks so.

As for "Roundturns and Two Half Hitches", I was NOT suggesting that as a name for the hitch at issue in this thread. I was merely describing a hitch I would use to tie down a Trucker Hitch.