[I should have remarked that I think my prior post was "2323"
--twice "23 Skiddoo" (some ol' American saying)

]
.. hold securely under load in slick, HMPE 12-strand rope.
How much load ? Was it, say, 50% of the rope s ultimum strength ?
Was it static or dynamic ? There are many things one has to take into account, beyond the well-known fact, that a single test can reveal but a miracle ! 
Of course not 50% --that just isn't seen in HMPE !
(not in eyeknots, anyway) And slow-pull loading,
as you ought to have seen --do WATCH that video,
and the one of the
dbl.bwl slipping .
Now, re the slipping knot,
that I believe couldn't
slip fast enough in a dynamic load to spill before breaking
(or holding a lower load); maybe the movement would
contribute to breakage (heat).
As I had tried to explain at (1), the nipping loop of the common bowline
does not "walk" ( "walk", not only "lean" ) towards the tip of the eye
And I challenge that there IS any such walking.
(I understood your assertion, but doubt it; I put what
Gommer's observed in a different light --"leaning" (and
[perhaps to some
initial extent, walking-adjusting
to a high-force set, but not continual adjustment.)
( the "eye" is the whole shape of the "bight"/"loop"...)
No, not to me : "eye" has less geometric and more functional
significance --it is that loopish part that DOES ... (and I don't
care to scrutinize whether its legs cross ("->loop") or not ("bight")!
And esp. with the knots at issue, we have already a plethora
of "bights" (in the sense so unfitting for "in the bight" use,
where thus it might be best to say "without ends" --such
dramatic geometric difference!).
As this friction is "proportional" to the gripping power of the nipping loop, the friction forces between a heavily loaded, "strong" nipping loop and the segments it encircles are greater than those of a "weaker" one - and the "lower" nipping loop, tensioned by 50% only of the load, is a weaker one, indeed. So the chances it will "walk" towards the tip of the eye are greater.
re the "dragging of the tail," realize that the SPart's turNip has the greater force and hence greater nip, which should impede the eye-side's turNip from taking parts from it
I suppose that the "first" / "higher" / stronger nipping loop will, more or less, remain in its initial place, because it is further immobilized by the pull of the "higher" / strong collar - but the "second" / "lower" / weaker one will be the one which will start "walking" towards the tip of the eye, dragging the weak collar along with it, and pulling the tail downwards. I just can not see how the "higher" loop, being firmly attached to the "bridge" and the legs of the collars, will impede the "walking" of the "lower" one...
You have just concurred in the reasoning that the
SPart's loop will have a stronger grip,
so why don't you concur in my conclusion that IT
will better HOLD parts than will any weaker loop
pull them away? In this (challenged!) tug-of-war,
the stronger grip should win ; the weaker
turNipwill walk only *lightly*, if at all --not carrying baggage.
Btw, how can this weaker turn walk away when it
is joined by the bridge? It would have to give back
material into the bridge (just as a wave through
water doesn't transport the actual water)!
The 50 whatever weight is too light for a 8 mm climbing rope... We want to use those safe bowlines in extreme situations, as replacements / substitutes of the retraced fig. 8 knot. So, I believe that any tests should reach bouncing dynamic loadings close to the ultimum strengths of the ropes on which they are tied.
One doesn't use cordage near its believed ultimate strength!
And, FYI, dangerous, ratcheting slippage in cyclical loading
of the
offset water knot in tape was observed NOT at
high loads, but at
low loads --exactly those that might
be generated on abseil, where the knot is in one side of two
of an anchoring sling and getting only half of the roughly
man-x-2 forces. So, the low-load bouncing was looking
to any such hint of movement where some recoil of the
material might be easier.
But, yes, there are other loadings, and so I did the pulley
loading for that, which was a look but hardly conclusive.
--to check a mere conjecture, though, coming w/o observation
beyond that of one that can be otherwise explained.
The simple double-turn lacks the security aspect of the challenged forms -- shown both by the Toss video of the dbl.bwl collapsing the eye under high load, and also being less secure when slack (the rockclimber's concern).
Yes, I have also sensed the same weakness - and I can not explain it !
Perhaps it is due to the friction between the two adjacent coils of the
double nipping loop, or the sharp curves at the standing part s and eye
leg s of the standing part first curves.
I can explain it : material feeds more easily into the
easy turns, whereas in the hitch-bases (
clove/cow)
there are sharper turns, and material rubs shoulders
with what should suffice frictionally to impede easy
movement. The double turn at least *allocates* an
absolute feed over two vs one turn, but that's only
a reduction of degree, and maybe in time (more time
allows more material, to then achieve equal looseness).
The hitch bases seem to better impede such loosening,
and there are ways to stuff more material among these
parts for increasing the simple frictions.
In the
bowline, the eye-side of the
turNip can be
readily available to help loosen this turn; but in the
hitch-based knots, it flows into the "bridge" as you say,
and so doesn't easily abet the SPart's loosening.
--dl*
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