On the second attachment it says: "The prusik knot will always hold better if it is right side up as shown below"
That is bullshoot. This is the same as saying: The Prusik with the loop sticking out on the right hand side performs better then the Prusik with the loop on the left hand side. It doesn't. Its the same knot!
> The prusik is symetrical. It works both ways equally well, as there is no difference.
I notice the date of publicly announcing the holding orientation of the prusik in that publication and it reminds me that knot experimentation and use were with laid ropes and cord. So I think the statement is factual and should be considered strongly if you were to use this knot on laid rope.
With modern ropes the prusik works equally well in both orientations, in my experience.
These slip and grip knots are so very dependent on materials used and I strongly advise personal testing before using in life endangering endeavors.
I went climbing last weekend and had a novice climber with me. We "tested/learned" several grip and slide setups. Some with the rope and cord on hand did well for me and the same did Not as well for him. The only difference was about 30 lbs.
I asked the young man to pick his favorite(s) out of the batch and he picked the "standard" 4 coil prusik and the Blake/Prohaska (4 coil as well) Both of those performed easily and he remembered easily. And that is what counts.
These were only used that day for rope ascension, not for autoblock backup.
Get familiar with them all and see what works for you personally for the given circumstances.
SS
P.S. Sorry Dan, my mega-quote was not to satisfy your earlier request. Crazy cyber demons at work is all.