Hello Andrea, hope you well
Reference your comment:
take a look at min 3.55
the cossack end he gives up more quickly because it's even more tight
I am going to make an outright absolute declaration Andreas.
Anti Bowlines based on #1010 or #1034 1/2 are jam resistant.
In other words, they do not jam!
I'm not sure how much clearer I can be?
...
Now - with specific respect to the Alan Lee video.
You might need to look more closely.
For reasons known only to himself (ie Alan) he did not 'break' the knot at its 'collar'.
When loosening 'Bowlines' - it is always best to begin at the 'collar'.
This is a general rule for all knots - I find it best to
first target the segment that can be readily loosened - and then work the other more stubborn segments.
...
I just performed my own load test today.
I loaded the anti Bowline based on #1010 and the anti Bowline based on #1034 1/2 right up to their MBS yield point.
I did this with the 'slipped' versions as well (ie both 'slipped' and
without 'slipping the tail').
Result: No jamming.
I was able to loosen all test specimens in less than 2 seconds!! (even after being loaded right up to MBS yield point).
NOTE: I used
EN892 human rated dynamic rope (11mm diameter).
...
COMMENTARY:This is an example where drawing conclusions from one persons video can lead to what I call a
false positive.
This is in no way intended to be disrespectful to Alan Lee.
I consider Alan to be a genius knot tyer.
However, I have openly criticized Alan with some of his test methods in the past - and I am entitled to give such critique.
Giving criticism is not by itself evidence of hatred, disrespect or belligerence.
It is simply professional criticism from one knot enthusiast to another.I would respectfully invite Alan to repeat his jam tests on the Anti Bowlines (both slipped and un-slipped).
He should focus on breaking the knot at its 'collar' initially.
In doing so, he will find that the knot specimen can be loosened in mere seconds...
I think Alan knows all of this anyway (I don't need to remind him)...