Author Topic: West Count(r)y Whipping - end knot  (Read 970 times)

mcjtom

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West Count(r)y Whipping - end knot
« on: April 21, 2023, 06:10:34 AM »
Could people familiar with whipping ends of rope advise if this is a good idea?

I figured that the West Country whipping would be the most permanent and practical to prevent rope ends frying (or kermantle core de-sheathing) or perhaps as a solid handle wrapper?  I start with a constrictor (this is not a new idea) then do the alternating half hitches as normal, but I didn't like the square knot at the end.

So I figured that maybe it is possible to end the whipping with a constrictor of sorts as well and it looks like it is.

Better to draw it, but after the last overhand, take one tail of the twine and wrap it around the rope and over the other tail twice (round turn) and tuck it under itself, parallel to the other tail (this will look like a clove hitch).  Then transform this clove hitch to a constrictor by crossing the tails underneath the cross-over strand.  Cinch well; cut tails; perhaps varnish/glue as well.

Is anyone aware of such finish?
« Last Edit: April 21, 2023, 08:05:40 AM by mcjtom »

mcjtom

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Re: West Count(r)y Whipping - end knot
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2023, 06:53:32 PM »
I found this thread from the 'IGKT's good old days' which seems to describe the same thing...

https://forum.igkt.net//index.php?topic=5726.0

In the meantime I also discovered that the #1253 alone is probably 'super good enough' for all the whipping I can think of.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2023, 07:04:13 PM by mcjtom »

Dan_Lehman

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Re: West Count(r)y Whipping - end knot
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2023, 04:46:15 PM »
Could people familiar with whipping ends of rope advise if this is a good idea?

I figured that the West Country whipping would be the most permanent and practical
to prevent rope ends frying (or kermantle core de-sheathing) or perhaps as a solid handle wrapper?
Fried kernmantle seldom being wanted, ... .  (-;
What is the basis for your assertion re WCWhipping?!
I'm curious as to what you see in that to advance it
vs. other whippings.

What's the purpose of whipping, and what materials
are you (likely to be) working with, and to what use
goes the whipped material (possibly tape!) ?!  These
are considerations of relevance.

I've been pretty happy whipping with extended
multiple strangle knots (i.e., extra buried twist
of ends beneath 4-8 overwraps), which IMO look
much tighter/surer than anything I've seen of
book methods --not that I think the carefully
SEWN-through ones are coming off, but ... .
I often try other things, as well, and esp. if using
parts of bailing twine's fibrillated polypropylene (PP).

But I am dealing with my "play ropes", sizes ranging
usually from 4..15mm; and I whip the soft flexible
solid pull-tape (PES) ends, though have in a few
cases tried sewing in a securing so as to preserve
the flat cross section (this hasn't gone as well as
I've wanted).

Recently I came to wonder about how my whippings
would hold up in outdoor, In The Wild usage --i.p.,
where material was wet, dry, wet :: this is something
warned about by some books.

You nicely found my long response way back, and that
holds.

I have thought to do WCW using constrictor-knottings
vice simple OH ones :: eh, yeah, it can be done, but
it tends to look/feel bulky.  ANDDDD, note that although
in this there is continual suck secure knotting (the OH
crossing compressed under the overwrap),
IF one part is cut, it ALL goes away --unlike, say, were
one to put on actual series of strangles, each one hauled
hard at the one end if the other is left connected to prior
knot:: cut any one, the others remain.  (Some books have
recommended using two whippings, close but separate!?)
((I'm now questioning my "it all goes away", but I think
   at least one will see that the integrity of the whole is
   much weakened.))
Whipping that soft solid pull-tape, I have often started
by folding it
 (either in 3rds or half --the former thinking
   of symmetry/balance; the latter realizing that the former
   is a bit of a PITA and not really all so great :-),
and then --using forceps-- inserting my whipping material
though the folded tape; this I think will well prevent the
whipping from being pulled off (which can happen).

 -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -  -   -  -  -  -

HERE'S A BRIGHT IDEA, which I've never seen expressly
advanced, though Hensel&Gretel's tome can be seen to
offer it, if obliquely ::
  put on a main whipping (e.g., an 8-turn strangle),
  enough IN from the end so that one can afterwards
  pull some few fibres from the end back over the
  1st-pass whipping AND THEN bind this material
  with "2nd-pass" whipping *behind*/inwards from end
  the 1st.  .:.  One has a main whipping now partially
  (a) protected by this rope material, and
  (b) secured against being pulled off the end
   --as the whipped-over-it fibres would have to somehow
   fail (being pulled out from the whipping over them
   (?!!  no way).

Of course, one can move the whipping more inwards
from the end so to have generous such over-covering
fibres drawn, and then trim the end closer to the
finished whipping if desired.

#1253 has impressed me as a slightly better form
than the Dbl.C usually given (#1252), but it's still just
that, AND if one only has some few wraps then those
more "stick out" for abrasion abuse.  There are ways
of extending the clove hitch for whipping; the clove
is more *pure* in delivering tension into the structure
than the constrictor, as ends go straight in, not making
the C.'s simple knotting.

Also, it only recently occurred to me that the simple
traditional whipping of wrapping over a buried U-fold
and tucking the working end through that bit of U-fold
left and then pulling the end under the wraps ... ,
has the advantage of locking in a HARD U-TURN,
thereby being very secure (possibly, stangles &
constrictors can gradually loosen :: the bound
ends can be slooowwwly pulled out;
but one can't make a U-turn in such pressure!).
BUT, this trad. whipping needs a lot of overwraps
as each buried end runs under half of them.

Oh, in some cases, I've finished by tying off the
ends with an OH stopper --the one stopper able
to be set pretty snug against something (alas,
though, I've found it often challenging to do this
even so!).

moral :: try different methods & materials, Have Fun !!

(-;

mcjtom

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Re: West Count(r)y Whipping - end knot
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2023, 02:56:07 AM »
Cheers for that!

Quote
I've been pretty happy whipping with extendedmultiple strangle knots (i.e., extra buried twistof ends beneath 4-8 overwraps), which IMO lookmuch tighter/surer than anything I've seen ofbook methods


One issue I'm having is difficulty of really firmly cinching such single, multi-wrap strangles/constrictors.  Even the #1253 is more difficult to draw tight than the regular constrictor.  Also, though I'm not entirely sure, a sequence of constrictors may be even more 'secure' and easier to keep tight than a series of strangles?
« Last Edit: April 25, 2023, 08:15:35 AM by mcjtom »

Dan_Lehman

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Re: West Count(r)y Whipping - end knot
« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2023, 06:41:35 PM »
Cheers for that!

Quote
I've been pretty happy whipping with extendedmultiple strangle knots (i.e., extra buried twistof ends beneath 4-8 overwraps), which IMO lookmuch tighter/surer than anything I've seen ofbook methods


One issue I'm having is difficulty of really firmly cinching such single, multiple wrap strangles/constrictors.  Even the ,#1253 is more difficult to draw tight than the regular constrictor.  Also, though I'm not entirely sure, a sequence of constrictors may be even more 'secure' and easier to keep tight than a series of strangles?


Are you whipping sans tools?  --something one ought
to be able to do, for at least temporary adequacy !
But tools are useful to do really good things, if one can.
(Consider, e.g., sometimes I find webbing with the woof
strand pulling out loose; I might employ that to make
a constrictor/strangle whipping for stemming the fraying
until later I can do a *proper* (!) whipping on it.

But for my whippings with the multiple strangle, I'm
usually using pliers to squeeze (repeatedly --could be
pounded) the structure in hope of more equalizing
tension from where it's delivered to ends of the knot
to the inner wraps.  (I worry that much of my effort
equalizes in effect by just losing OUT of the knot the
tension given!)

Here are URLinks to a thread on whipping in which my
earlier-post's image is still available for enlargement,
showing quite tight whippings (i.e., ones that appear
to have compressed rope to less than its relaxed diameter!).
(strange things happen sometimes in these old attachments
--thumbnails in post don't get found; and in some cases then
 the thumbnail image is no longer viewable in the post!?)

I must say that the discussion in the aforecited thread is less
*robust* than it should've been.  I present some very tightly
put on strangle whippings --visibly so, indeed-- but get little
acknowledgement of their seeming fitness for duty, and still
this near-reverence for palm-&-needle whipping.  (Almost
comically, one fellow opining that MY method takes too many
tools --pliers & forceps <gasp>! --yet HIS requires much the
same number (we'll both want to cut/trim), but of SPECIALIST
tools (palm & needle for such thread (and might this needle
be something needing to be sized appropriately for the whipping
materail, unlike my tools?!)).
We should note that my more robust strangles are those that
finish with the sailmaker's method put into the inward end,
which I began just a being cheap and not wanting to have to gauge
need or use excessive length and then cut :: no, I have one end of
strangle stopper-knotted and short --stopper to give purchase for
plier's pull--, the other "end" will be a U-fold, which gets enlarged
for pulling around either a short play rope or going the other side
my batch of whipping material, in making some 1-3,4 wraps
then pulling the U-fold's end --which also sticks out of the rope-end
side-- to set tight this 2nd bit of wrapping :: which locks off this
one strangle end from loosening and thereby IMO precludes the
other from doing so.
("sympathetic loosening" is how I believe a strangle/constrictor
can loosen over time; but w/the effective U-turn in one end,
... no loosening will occur, IMO !)


https://forum.igkt.net/index.php?topic=2225.0%20%20hhh%20
https://forum.igkt.net/index.php?topic=2225.msg17672;topicseen#msg17672

THIS one is letting me see thumb, enlarge, and further enlarge:
https://forum.igkt.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2225.0;attach=2318;image

TIGHTness, but not that pull-back-some-fibres-&-bind-those-behind
version.

But it is something to note that structures having many wraps
have for each wrap friction inhibiting the transfer of tension
into inner wraps; and why one might opt to use something
that builds a substantial binding from combining several
small ones, each of which CAN be set hard.  I've tried this
with a series of Reverse Groundline Hitches --something
that is intended to be put on one after another, though
not so closely adjacent as we might want for whipping.


--dl*
====

mcjtom

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Re: West Count(r)y Whipping - end knot
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2023, 08:06:19 AM »
A bit of an overkill perhaps, but a similar concept to multi-wrap strangle.  I like the idea of tightening the whipping by inserting the second wave of wraps in between the first layer.

https://youtu.be/GdomeIxtu3E

 

anything