Tautline, midshipman etc. then even 'open' Prussic Lesson#481/pg77 of
tinyurl.com/abok-online . Also, as if so, in the adjustable eyes of Adjustable Hitch etc.(some new 8's etc./not in ABoK).
Another Crazy Theory:
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Note also in the retrievable scenario of rope around host support and back down to climber as friction hitch has climb potentials of 1x if grab both load and control legs of line as one and pull self up
vs.
pulling down just control side, gives potential of 2/1 over self, but then frictional loss against that sum.
>>climber inputs pull on 1 leg/side of rope, but both legs/sides of support shorten for 2/1 mechanic.
Then, on rappel, hitch can slide cleanly in the 2/1(twice as fast so easy to burn ya if touch wrong);
>>have to drill into head if problem do NOT grab hitch or could fall/as that can be release(to slide) handle!
BUT on an Single Rope Technique, SRT, the hitch tends to seize hard, rather than slide.
ACT:In dual leg/retrievable for a 1/4 second the terminating to waist/load leg seems to float climber, and can slide (unloaded)hitch then on control leg to lower self to ground/next level, then retrieve rope.
>>for these hitches need unloaded mostly to slide
*Note this does take 2x as much rope as the drop to be dual leg, retrievable!
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Prohaska/Blake's is actually a superior form i think tho,
and not looking at rope generically, can choose other material. construction to build this product in.
As like would choose a different wood, metal, plastic etc. material builds for such higher class (as friction hitches are) /tuned usages in those other materials to a likewise specialty product.
Loaded rope work, working knots; are just another geometry(properties percentages) X another material(properties potential), as like other products(and mechanics).
Rope is of the flexible/non-rigids support class. We see more of, and innately understand more of the rigid support class. But things of rope, are things of non-rigids/flexibles class; rope is just the common, most used, most visible, exemplary(round) representative of the class.
