General > Practical Knots

Any friction hitches other than Blake's Hitch when using same size rope?

(1/1)

KnotLikely:
Blake's hitch is a bit temperamental and seems to be quite rope-dependent as to how to tie it for best effect.  Are there any other friction hitches that can be tied using the extra long tail of a tie-in or the belay side tail of a top rope?

The standard 4-2 seems to work well on very few ropes.  I got a 5-2, a 5-3 and a 6-3 to work on my experiments with different gym ropes, tonight.  Tying multiple and checking each one was fine for hanging two feet off the ground.  I wouldn't want to attempt that if I was any higher and working on the fly with a rope that wasn't mine.

Can any other friction hitch be tied with only the single rope tail and without a dedicated prusik loop?

Use case?  Pretend I just dropped my hollow block and I'm stranded in the middle of a hitched-tree-for-a-master-point route with a knocked out belayer.  Luckily, for some reason, I tied in with a 5 foot tail.  Help me out, here.

KC:
Tautline, midshipman etc. then even 'open' Prussic Lesson#481/pg77 of tinyurl.com/abok-online .  Also, as if so, in the adjustable eyes of Adjustable Hitch etc.(some new 8's etc./not in ABoK).
Another Crazy Theory:

.
Note also in the retrievable scenario of rope around host support and back down to climber as friction hitch has climb potentials of 1x if grab both load and control legs of line as one and pull self up
vs.
pulling down just control side, gives potential of 2/1 over self, but then frictional loss against that sum.
>>climber inputs pull on 1 leg/side of rope, but both legs/sides of support shorten for 2/1 mechanic.
Then, on rappel, hitch can slide cleanly in the 2/1(twice as fast so easy to burn ya if touch wrong);
>>have to drill into head if problem do NOT grab hitch or could fall/as that can be release(to slide) handle!
BUT on an Single Rope Technique, SRT, the hitch tends to seize hard, rather than slide.
ACT:In dual leg/retrievable for a 1/4 second the terminating to waist/load leg  seems to float climber, and can slide (unloaded)hitch then on control leg to lower self to ground/next level, then retrieve rope.
>>for these hitches need unloaded mostly to slide
*Note this does take 2x as much rope as the drop to be dual leg, retrievable!
.
Prohaska/Blake's is actually a superior form i think tho,
and not looking at rope generically, can choose other material. construction to build this product in.
As like would choose a different wood, metal, plastic etc. material builds for such higher class (as friction hitches are) /tuned usages in those other materials to a likewise specialty product.
Loaded rope work, working knots; are just another geometry(properties percentages) X  another material(properties potential), as like other products(and mechanics).
Rope is of the flexible/non-rigids support class.  We see more of, and innately understand more of the rigid support class.   But things of rope, are things of non-rigids/flexibles class; rope is just the common, most used, most visible, exemplary(round) representative of the class.

Dan_Lehman:

--- Quote from: KnotLikely on September 19, 2023, 06:52:51 AM ---Blake's hitch is a bit temperamental and seems to be quite rope-dependent as to how to tie it for best effect.  Are there any other friction hitches that can be tied using the extra long tail of a tie-in or the belay side tail of a top rope?

The standard 4-2 seems to work well on very few ropes.  I got a 5-2, a 5-3 and a 6-3 to work on my experiments with different gym ropes, tonight.

--- End quote ---
Heinz advised (in his Nylon Highway presentation, IIRC?!)
to use an extra wrap around the tail if slippage seemed due
from inflexibility (5:3); if from slipperiness, then add another
single-strand wrap (5:2).  --and so on, as you've discovered.
(And sometimes to my own fiddling with it, it seemed to matter
how one might SET the hitch --that some bit of stretching it
out just a little vs. a snug setting at the S.Part end was what
then got the ever tightening gripping.  !?)

--dl*
====

Navigation

[0] Message Index

Go to full version